Ah, New Mexico ain’t bad, Lord
And the people there they treat you kind
Ah, New Mexico ain’t bad, Lord
And the people there they treat you kind
Ah White Freightliner won’t you steal away my mind
— Townes Van Zandt, White Freightliner Blues
There’s a pretty strong thrill of frisson for a Frontier Partisan standing at the terminus of the Santa Fe Trail. Thousands of Mountain Men, traders, soldiers, Indians and settlers trekked along that historic commercial (and ultimately strategic) route from 1821, when Missouri trader William Becknell formed the first expedition to trail goods from the U.S. into Mexican territory.
Prior to this, the Spanish had been pretty aggressive about keeping American traders away — arresting them and transporting them to jail in Chihuahua. When Mexico gained its independence, things opened up. And for about 60 years, the Santa Fe Trail was a vital lifeline in connecting the U.S. with what would become its territories in the Southwest.
It was commerce that brought Lady Marilyn and I to Santa Fe this week. Or, rather, palavering about commerce. Our spring newspaper group conference was located at the Tamaya Resort, in the Pueblo of Santa Ana just outside Albuquerque.
As you probably would figure, I tend to prefer the rustic. But if I’ve gotta experience the “luxury” end, this is just fine. Lady Marilyn certainly thought so. While I palavered with my colleagues, she availed herself of the amenities.
My colleagues got a kick out of me bolting during lunch for a ramble down to the Rio Grande.
The Santia Mountains and the Rio Grande.
For two days, I was haunted by a Tom Russell song…
In the Bosque.
Marilyn and I rolled in a day early so we could head up to Santa Fe. We couldn’t quite swing getting to Taos and the Kit Carson Home and Museum — but we’re already plotting that trip. We will definitely be returning to New Mexico.
There have been several churches on the same site on the plaza, one of which was destroyed in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. The current Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi was built in between the 1860s and 1880s. it looks similar to the one that was there during the days of the Santa Fe Trail.
The country has old bones, and you can palaver with ghosts in the plaza that dates back to the 17th century — even as you poke around 21st century boutiques that make your wallet shriek in fear. Yes, you can get yourself a beautiful turquoise squash blossom necklace just about anywhere you turn – for a few thousand plews. We explored O’Farrell Hat Co., widely regarded as the premier Western custom hat maker. They make a fine hat, no doubt about it. For $750 to $1,000 with an 18 month lead time. I walked out recognizing that I am more than content with my equally excellent Baldwin Hat Co. piece — and recognizing that you are content with what you have is a good definition of “rich.”
The only plews we dropped were for a fine lunch at Coyote Cantina. The Mexican food is just at a different level than anywhere I’ve been — including Austin, Texas and Los Angeles.
I guess you could rail against the commercialism of the whole business, but that would be futile — and unhistorical. The business of Santa Fe was always business — and for years it carried an eye-watering stink of corruption. This was the locus of the notorious Santa Fe Ring, whose tentacles extended across the territory. Some of its associates figured heavily in the Lincoln County War.
We’ll be hitting the trail to Boise tonight for a mini-festival featuring Turnpike Troubadours, Cody Jinx and Trampled By Turtles. Helluva raid, I’d say…
Matthew says
I haven’t been to Santa Fe since I was a kid. Would like to go.
I will be going to San Antonio week after next.
John Maddox Roberts says
When I first came to New Mexico in 1965 (59 years ago. Hard to believe)You could buy Navajo blankets and Acoma pots in the gas stations, sold to tourists as “curios.” The pawnshops were full of Navajo silver work cheap. At least if you didn’t mind taking advantage of some Indian’s poverty or bad luck. Now the artists have guilds and they get what their work is worth. The air is clean and free and the sky is blue (I say this looking out my window at a gloomy, overcast sky. Snow is in the forecast).But the weather is warming and the other day I heard a meadowlark singing. Spring is on the way.
Paul McNamee says
Glad you worked in pleasure with business.
Ugly Hombre says
https://www.skiapache.com/
New Mexico is a great state- glad you had fun there! Its went left not near as bad as the late great- but it not as western as it used to be sad to say.. Was at Holloman as a kid, had a 350 Honda that I drove all over the state, go to the Alamogordo Cantina’s listen to Mexican polka music, drink Cerveza across the border in Juarez. Goofy young G.I. days. My boss had a engraved Ruger early black hawk he tried to sell me- turned it down (duh). Ski at the Mescalero resort in Ruidoso. Met a old tarantula rancher in a bar who had a old Colt with a nekkid woman ivory handle. Sad was too damn stupid to take advantage of some things “youth is wasted on the young” is true. 1/2 century ago or more. Maybe some day I’ll go back there eat the great Mexican food and look at the old haunts..Sure as hell won’t go back into Juarez though. I’m a little smarter now I like to think.
But maybe not.
lol
Clyde says
Lived in a cabin in the Sangre de Cristo mountains outside of Las Vegas, NM for 3 years back in the early 2000s. Went to Santa Fe twice a month for groceries and such. Bought some jewelry from the Indians that sat in front of The Palace of the Governor’s on the plaza. Absolutely love the country and the food but it could get a little dangerous at times. I would see Patrick Swayze in his yard sometimes when I went by. So much history there. Had a friend that his family owned 4,000+ acres in the mountains that was part of a Spanish land grant. He was part Mescalero Apache and we had many good times “up on the monte with cerveza,” as he would say. Everywhere you ate regardless of what you ordered the waitress would ask “Red or Green?” with regards to which type of chiles you wanted with your food. I would usually tell them “Christmas” for some of both. You got me wanting to take a trip back now.
JimC says
Good stuff. It was Christmas for us on the daily.
Wayne says
Back in the 90’s I took my wife on what I called the Cowboys and Indians Tour. We drove from our home in the Appalachians to the Southwest. Along the way we visited the Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City, the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge (buffal0), Palo Duro Canyon, Santa Rosa and Billy the Kid’s grave, Santa Fe (where I bought a straw cowboy hat from a street vendor for $20 – Orvis sells the same hat now for $75), Taos and Kit and Josefa Carson’s house and graves, Mesa Verde and Aztec National Parks, and Durango. Toped it off with a stay at a dude ranch for some trail riding and a dance with a Western swing band.
You have to love that country and I need to get back.
JimC says
What a great trip.
Padre says
Looks like a great trip. I’ve got a gathering for work south of Portland next week, so I made sure to arrange my flights to allow for my own little frontier raid. I’m hoping to see Silver Falls and catch Fort Vancouver before I head home. Wish I had more time to make it to Astoria to see the Lewis & Clark site, but that will have to wait.
JimC says
Fort Vancouver is well worth the time. Important place.